So you’re thinking about starting a mealworm farm.

Whether you have a flock of hungry chickens to feed or just one lizard, building a mealworm colony can be a fascinating and strangely entertaining way to provide healthy, nutritious food for your pets. If you’ve already ordered a Wormera Mealworm Farm Breeding Kit or are still deciding if you want a container of worms and beetles in your house, we hope this article will give you the guidance you need.

Understanding Mealworms

What Are Mealworms?

Mealworms are not true worms. They are technically the larval stage of the darkling beetle (Tenebrio molitor), an insect species that has been utilized for centuries as a reliable source of protein and nutrition for many different animals and birds. They have a segmented body covered in a hard exoskeleton that ranges from pale yellow to dark brown as they grow. Although they try to bite, they are not strong enough to damage human skin. 

Life Cycle of Mealworms

Mealworms undergo complete metamorphosis, which consists of four distinct stages:

Egg Stage: Tiny, white, and oval-shaped mealworm eggs are nearly invisible to the naked eye. Female beetles lay eggs in the substrate or attach them to the bottom of the container.  They will generally hatch within 4-19 days, depending on environmental conditions like temperature and humidity. The cooler the temperature, the longer they will take to hatch. One egg produces one worm.

Larva: Once the eggs hatch, the worms begin the larval stage, which is the longest and can last 3-6 months. During this stage, mealworms grow through multiple moults, shedding their thin exoskeleton as they increase in size. They are most commonly harvested for feed at this stage. 

Pupa: Once mealworms reach maturity, they transition into an immobile, non-feeding pupal stage that lasts 1-3 weeks. This stage is critical for the worms' transformation into the adult beetle. It may begin early if the worms are stressed by sifting, or excessive heat and cool temperatures may delay it.

Adult Beetle: Newly emerged adult beetles are initially soft and light in colour but harden and darken over a few days. They are most active at night and can live for over two to three months, during which they mate and lay hundreds of eggs.

Why Start a Mealworm Farm?

Starting a mealworm farm is an excellent idea for pet owners, especially those with reptiles, birds, fish, or small mammals. Mealworms are easy to breed and cost-effectively provide a nutritious food source. Here are five compelling reasons to consider farming mealworms for your pets:

1. Vital Nutrition

Mealworms are rich in protein, healthy fats, and essential nutrients, making them a perfect addition to your pet's diet. Their high protein content supports growth, energy, and overall health, especially for animals with active lifestyles or special dietary needs. Mealworms are a powerhouse of nutrition, containing around 50% protein, 30% fat, and various essential vitamins and minerals.

2. Cost-Effective Food Source

Buying live or dried mealworms from pet stores can be expensive over time. You can significantly cut costs by breeding your own while ensuring a constant supply. A small initial investment in supplies and starter worms will quickly pay off.

3. Simple and Easy

Mealworm farming is easy! Mealworms require minimal water, food, and space to thrive. They can be fed on kitchen scraps like vegetable peels. They require minimal effort to maintain. 

4. Convenient

Having a mealworm farm at home means you’ll never run out of fresh food for your pets. You can easily manage the growth cycle to ensure a steady supply of larvae, the preferred stage for feeding most pets.

5. Educational

Mealworm farming is an excellent activity for families and hobbyists. It can be an opportunity to teach kids about insect life cycles and caring for animals.

Planning Your Mealworm Farm

Step 1: Determine your Goals

First, you must decide your purpose for starting a mealworm breeding farm. Will the worms be used for personal use to feed pets like reptiles or birds or for larger commercial production? In this article, we will concentrate only on personal-use farms. For more information about commercial opportunities, please contact us directly at support@wormera.ca.

Step 2: How to Decide the Size of the Farm

The hardest decision you must make is determining the farm size you need to continually provide for your animals. Our unique Wormera mealworm Farm kits will take the guesswork out of this step.

Important: Only feed adult chickens approx. 10-15 mealworms per day.

If you need more worms than that, increase the number of beetles or large worms to adjust your farm size to your specific needs. For example, if you have over 25 chickens, you may wish to purchase an additional 5000 each of large and small/medium worms. If you allow just 500 of them to pupate into beetles, you will rapidly increase your farm production within 6 months. 

Step 3: Choose a Location for your Farm

Mealworms thrive indoors, making heated garages, basements, or spare rooms ideal. The location should be:

Dry: Moisture can lead to mould, diseases, and pests. For this reason, we do not recommend keeping your farm in a damp bathroom. If necessary, dehumidifiers should be used to maintain a stable environment with 50-60 percent humidity.

Temperature Controlled: For optimum production, maintain temperatures between 21°C and 29°C (70°F and 85°F). Extreme temperatures can slow growth or cause mortality.

Ventilated: Ensure proper air circulation to provide fresh air. Mealworm farms can produce a slight odour if not appropriately maintained.

Secure: Place your farm in an area protected from curious pets or children. A stable surface where it can’t be accidentally knocked over is essential.  

Equipment and Supplies

You will need a few things to set up your farm.

Containers

The container you choose for your worm farm depends on size and available space. It should be relatively shallow and plastic, as worms and beetles cannot climb smooth surfaces. Clear containers are preferred for beginner farms, as they allow you to view the depth of bedding and frass for maintenance.

There are two basic methods for managing your mealworm farm. 

1. Combination Approach
2. Separation Approach

In the combination approach, all stages of worms and beetles are kept together in one container. This method works well for smaller farms where only a few worms are removed for feeding as needed. You will need a shallow bin or bucket to set up your farm this way. A lid with holes is preferred, but since the beetles do not fly, a lid is not required.

A separation approach requires keeping the different stages and/or sizes in individual containers. Worms are moved between bins as they grow and change. This method requires more planning and maintenance but will improve your farm's production and make harvesting worms easier. Depending on your farm size, you will need five containers, one for each stage. A plastic drawer unit or multiple small bins are used for this process.  

Substrate

The substrate serves as both bedding and food for mealworms. We recommend our Optimal Food and Bedding, which is included in all of our kits. Our proprietary blend has added protein, vitamins and minerals for increased growth and worm health. Plain wheat bran may also be used. Wheat bran is available in most larger grocery stores in the cereal aisle. 

Rolled oats are also a commonly cited bedding option. However, we do not recommend them because their coarse nature makes sifting worms harder. They are also more likely to mould or develop pests such as grain mites than wheat bran bedding, especially in closed containers. Therefore, they can be used, but be aware of potential issues that may occur. 

Ensure that your worms always have bedding available for healthy growth and nutrition. There is no maximum depth of bedding, although you don’t want it so deep that the mealworms or beetles can climb out of the containers. We maintain a depth of 1-2” on our farm. 

Other Supplies

• A thermometer to monitor temperature (ideal range: 21–29°C).
• A hygrometer to measure humidity levels (ideal range: 50-60%).
• Sifting tools for separating different life stages and cleaning.

Setting Up Your Farm

Step 1: Receive Kit

If you order one of our Mealworm Breeding Farm Kits, you will receive several containers of worms and beetles. They should appear active and healthy. However, some worms or beetles may die due to shipping stress. To compensate for this, we add an extra 10% to all live orders. The beetle container may smell quite strong when you open it; this is entirely normal, and the smell will disperse once the beetles settle into their new home. 

Step 2: Prepare Containers or drawers

1. Line each container with 1-2 inches of substrate. Avoid overfilling, as this can hinder ventilation.
2. If using a separated farm, label containers for each life stage: eggs and micro worms, small and medium worms, large and extra-large worms, pupae, and beetles. Proper labelling ensures efficient management. For a combination farm, you will just add bedding to the one container.
3. Confirm that the location will be safe and secure for your farm.

Step 3: Add Mealworms

Introduce mealworms and beetles into the designated containers. Remove any dead worms or beetles you see. Add food to the containers as follows.

Feeding, Moisture and Maintenance

Feeding and Moisture

Dry Feed: As outlined in the substrate section of this article, use something like our Optimum Food and Bedding as the primary feed. Once the feed level has been reduced, replace the substrate. This task is usually performed weekly on our farm.

Moisture Sources: Provide sliced carrots, potatoes, or apples for hydration. Use smaller pieces for the smaller worms. Only feed enough that worms and beetles can completely consume within 1 to 2 days to prevent mould growth. Experiment with different vegetables to determine the preferences of your colony. We find that our worms love zucchini, pumpkin, and carrots.

Maintenance

• Remove dry worm manure (frass) as needed to keep the containers clean. Once the waste reaches 1-2 inches deep, sieves are used to separate it from larvae and substrate. This process can be dusty, so sift outdoors, in a garage or bathtub, for easy clean-up. You may want to wear a mask as well. The frass is an excellent nutrient-rich fertilizer for gardens, lawns, and plants.
• Separate the vulnerable pupae into a dedicated container to prevent cannibalism by larvae or beetles.
• Monitor temperature and humidity frequently. 
• Inspect for signs of mould, disease or pest infestation. Address issues promptly to prevent outbreaks.

Breeding and Lifecycle Management

Egg Stage

• Eggs are very hard to see without magnification, only about the size of a grain of sand. They will hatch in 4-19 days, depending on temperature. Maintain optimal conditions to maximize hatch rates.
  

Larvae Stage

• Mealworms go through multiple moults. Each moult marks an increase in size. Immediately after moulting the larvae will be almost white in color. They will darken within hours of mouting.
• To ensure healthy development, feed the worms consistently. As they grow, move them into the appropriate-sized container. 
• Allow approximately 5% of your large worms to pupate into beetles to replenish your mealworm breeding farm. Adjust this percentage according to your monthly needs.

Pupae Stage

• Pupae are immobile and do not require food or moisture. Transfer pupae to a separate container to avoid predation by larvae or adult beetles.
• Ensure the pupae container is free from moisture to prevent fungal growth.
• As the pupae change to beetles move the newly hatched beetles to the beetle container. You may want to add a piece of egg carton to the pupae bin; this makes removing the beetles easier as they begin to climb as soon as they “hatch.”
• Beetles will be white in color and darken from a reddish-brown into a darker black.

Adult Beetle Stage

• Adult beetles lay eggs in their bedding. Gently sift the beetles from the substrate monthly and move the egg-filled bedding to a separate container. This practice protects eggs from accidental damage. 
• Adult beetles live and lay eggs for 2-3 months. Remove any dead beetles you see.
• Provide additional moisture sources to support hydration without increasing humidity levels excessively.

Harvesting Mealworms

When to Harvest Mealworms

Harvest mealworms when they reach full size or as needed for your pets. This stage provides the best balance of protein and fat content. Any excess pupae and/or beetles may also be fed to pets.

How to Harvest

1. Use a sieve to separate mealworms from the substrate. Choose a mesh size appropriate for the larvae. Or use Tweezers or your fingers to pick the appropriate size worm for your pet directly from the bedding material.
2. If not feeding immediately, store sifted mealworms in a breathable container in the refrigerator for a few days.
3. You can freeze mealworms to humanely kill them before using or store them for future use. Freezing also helps preserve their nutritional value.

Challenges and Troubleshooting

Common Issues

• Mould: Reduce moisture sources and improve ventilation. Inspect containers daily to identify and address mould early.
• Pests: The most common pest you may encounter are grain mites. These occur when the humidity level in the container becomes too high.